If this is your first time building a custom keyboard, you should do two things before attempting this build.
- watch a few soldering tutorials
- read through a detailed build guide like the one for the splitkb.com Aurora Series
The remainder of this build guide will assume a basic familiarity with the process and will only hit upon specific items that may be different or important to note while building the One Up Chuck.
| Qty | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | One Up Chuck PCB (can be printed by uploading the zip file to JLC) |
| 2 | 3D printed cases, top and bottom |
| 1 | XIAO BLE or compatible board of your choice, as long as it is supported by ZMK |
| 1 | Panasonic EVQ-PUC02K momentary switch for the reset button |
| 1 | wireless only: Alps SSSS811101 SPDT slide switch for the battery on/off |
| 1 | wireless only: 3.7v 250mAh 502030 rechargeable LiPo battery (max internal space: 5.3x22x32mm) |
| 42 | SOD-123 1N4148W SMD diodes |
| 30 | Gateron Low Profile hot swap sockets |
| 30 | Gateron KS-33 Low Profile switches of your choice |
| 30 | Low profile MX keycaps of your choice (note: full sized keycaps will be too big) |
| 1 | Bourns PES12-42S* EC12 encoder with a knob of your choice |
| 12 | M2 hex nuts |
| 12 | M2 x 6mm countersunk screws |
| 10 | 6mm x 1.5mm bumpons |
| ~3mm | 1.75mm transparent 3D printer filament for the "fiber optic" led light guide |
* You could also use a Bourns PES12-40S EC12 detentless encoder, or an encoder from another manufacturer, but the Bourns encoder is designed to have its detents with both A and B set to low, so a different option is likely to draw more power, and thus isn't the best choice for a wireless build.
You should ideally have access to:
- a soldering iron
- some good quality solder
- a decent hands-free magnifying glass
- precision tweezers
- wire cutter / stripper
- isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush
The PCB can be easily ordered from a circuit board manufacturer with an online store. I used JLC because--at least at the time of my order--their prices are unbeatable.
To order, you can simply upload the gerber zip file to their website, accept all of the defaults, and wait a week or two for the boards to arrive.
However, the minimum order at JLC is 5 copies, so you'll likely end up with 4 extra PCBs. I don't really have any advice for what to do with the extras, but you maybe could give one to a friend!
A few items that you may want to customize:
- the color of the board; I printed mine in red, but whatever color you pick, the edges of the PCB will still be a little greenish
- I also chose to hide the JLC order number, to give the board a cleaner look
- HASL can be lead-free if you are also using lead-free solder, or you can splurge for ENIG, but it's definitely not required
I'll add more details here once I get my PCB and build it, but if you've built keyboards before, you shouldn't really have any trouble, just be sure to follow the symbols on the silkscreen.