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de4tablet-assembly.txt
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These assembly instructions can also be found at:
http://www.instructables.com/id/DE4-FPGA-tablet/
1. Laser cut your parts. You need several types of acrylic:
1mm clear (for the battery cover)
2mm clear (for the PCIe protector)
3mm blue (for the baseplate)
4mm clear (for top plate, bezel and supports)
2. Start with the blue baseplate.
Attach 5x 5mm M3 M-F pillars using M3x6 screws, to match up with the inner
holes on the DE4
3. In the corners, attach 4x 5mm M3 M-F pillars in the same way, but using
4x 12mm M3 M-Fpillars on the other side.
4. Remove the back acrylic plate from the display, leaving the bare PCB
attached with the original 6x M3 pillars. Place this underneath the
baseplate.
5. Align the screen pillars with the baseplate and screw in with 6x M3 6mm
nylon screws. Nylon screws are used here to avoid shorting out on the DE4
if the plastic flexes.
6. Make up or buy a 40 way IDC cable that's 12cm long. Don't make it longer
than this (it picks up interference from the display), and you don't need to
use an 80 way IDE cable as the screen is supplied with. Make slits between
conductors to make the ribbon more flexible.
7. Fit one end of the ribbon to the display through the hole in the
backplate
8. Slot on the DE4. A small amount of adjustment of pillars may be
required.
9. Take the PCIe protector (2mm acrylic L-shaped piece). Place two washers
on the pillars then slot the protector over the holes to cover the PCIe
connector.
10. Screw on M3 F-F pillars of different lengths:
B 13mm/14
A 9mm/11mm
G and G2 30mm (x5)
J 13mm
C 11mm/12
If you can't buy these pillars, you can buy the nearest size and add
unthreaded spacers to extend them. The exact pillar length may depend on
the tolerances of your acrylic (which can vary widely) so you may need to
adjust them slightly.
11. Take the HDMI TX board and its base plate (4mm acrylic)
Make sure the base plate is earthed so it holds no static charge, then screw
the base to the HDMI board with 2x 8mm M3 screws and M3 nuts
12. Attach the HSMC extender to the HSMC socket on the DE4 nearest the
ethernet ports. You may need to adjust the pillar height supporting it -
the idea is that it's very close but not touching the pillars, so that the
connector is bearing most of the weight. Slip in a 1 or 2mm spacer in here
is necessary to support it.
13. Fit the HDMI board to the extender. You may have to adjust the height
of pillars B and C to fit. Ideally it should be spaced so that the bolt
heads on the underside of the HDMI board almost but not quite touch the top
of the ethernet sockets.
14. Take a PicoPSU and disconnect all the optional cables. Take the
mounting plate and thread the power input cable through the larger of the
square holes. Cable tie the PicoPSU in place - the lock on the tie must be
on the opposite side of the mounting plate from the PSU.
15. Attach the DE4 power adaptor cable to the PicoPSU. May take a little
adjustment of the pins to make it fit (the PicoPSU connector tends to curve
a little). Cut off the end of the cable tie.
16. Take the lid and the battery cover. Attach the battery cover to the lid
with 5x M3 30mm screws and nuts and washers on the reverse. Also use 3x M3
8mm screws with nuts and washers on the lower three holes.
17. Fit the battery into the slot in the lid, cover it with the battery
support, and screw on with nyloc screws (careful not to tighten too much).
There are dimples on the bottom of the battery which align with holes in the
battery support.
18. Screw the PSU support into the lid using 4x M3 25mm screws and nyloc
nuts (again, don't overtighten). It doesn't sit parallel to the lid, so
don't worry if it isn't flat.
19. Cut off the input socket to the PicoPSU and replace with a 1.3mm DC
power plug and a switch interrupting the positive rail.
20. Remove all nuts and washers from the switch. There are two side pieces
a middle piece and a top piece that hold the switch in place - you may find
that another pair of side pieces is more convenient than the top piece.
The square top piece holds everything together, and are screwed on with 4x
M3 20mm screws and nuts.
21. Plug in the ATX power cable into the DE4.
22. Place the lid on top of the DE4, making sure all cables are arranged and
don't snag on the fan.
23. Lightly attach the lid at the battery end with 4x M3 12mm screws
24. Now add unthreaded spacers to the four screws around the HDMI board so it's
supported correctly. As this depends on the tolerance of the acrylic, you
may have to adjust it slightly. Here's what I used:
A: 1mm + 2mm + 7mm
J: 1mm + 7mm
c: 2mm + 8mm
B: 2mm + 8mm (this requires thin-walled spacers - omit if you don't have any)
Screw these stacks together with M3 25mm screws.
26. Tighten all the lid screws and make sure it sits flat.
27. Fit the MTL-LCD adaptor and plug in the screen ribbon cable.
28. Fit the bezel around the display and screw on with 4x M3 8mm screws
29. You're done!